Some of the best works of theatre happen in one small location. One room, four people, and the fireworks that happen with opposing viewpoints collide: that’s the formula for some of theatre’s best work, and we could probably easily add Theresa Rebeck’s Seared to that list, now on stage at Austin Playhouse. Seared follows hotheaded, artistically motivated Harry, newly-lauded chef of a tiny New York restaurant, as he struggles, along with his business partner Mike and head waiter Rodney, to keep their heads above water and integrity intact after their popularity, and that of a certain scallop dish, explodes. When Mike brings in consultant Emily to help turn the restaurant around, things get incendiary, friendships are tested, and the question of art vs. commerce becomes all too real.
Whatever you do, do not go to Seared hungry. One of the delights of the show is the live cooking portions, where Devin Finn’s chef Harry (or other members of the cast) will create dishes live on stage, and it’s intoxicating. The scents that linger throughout theatre throughout the theatre are enough to make anyone salivate, so be sure to grab a meal before walking in, or else you may have a grumbling stomach early and often. It’s a testament to the skills of these performers they not only give phenomenal performances, but also create sumptuous meals, and the way director Lara Toner Haddock and her running crew keep things on track with so many moving pieces (including a live stove and working sink) is quite impressive.
Devin Finn could have taken the easy path and played the lead role of Harry as the typical angry chef, a la Gordon Ramsay or Anthony Bourdain, but Finn digs down to the find the heart within Rebeck’s words, bringing a deep-felt sensitivity to the role of gruff, grizzled culinarian. He walks that difficult line between winningly charming curmudgeon and asshole with surprising skill, with the audience always connected to his plight while still wondering if he could tone down his preciousness to get the work done. It’s impressive work, and his chemistry with the rest of the cast is electric, his moments with Wolfe in particular being absolutely explosive.
Anyone who walks away from this production of Seared will agree, it’s best moments are those between Devin Finn’s Harry and Ben Wolfe’s Mike. Watching these two performers do their dance is like watching a high level fencing match, as each seeks to maneuver and gain advantage with each argument. It’s a delight to watch Ben Wolfe tackle the piece, as his thoughtful grasp of each phrase adds to his character, creating a specific vocal pattern that is uniquely Mike, and an added layer of specific physicality that makes for a memorable impression. Mike is the long-time business partner of Harry, and you can tell that Mike has a deep love of his friend, but the frustration is undeniable, and the way that Wolfe is able to frame his anger, knowing when to keep things at a steady boil, and when to finally explode, is superb. One could watch the two of them match wits for hours and still remaining riveted, as these two create fireworks whenever they are on stage together, and it’s only further elevated when Sarah Zeringue’s Emily enters the fray.
There’s something of a plastic doll to Sarah Zeringue’s Emily, the consultant brought in to turn Harry’s restaurant around. This isn’t to diminish Zeringue’s performance, far from it, but moreso to say that, from early stages, we can tell that Emily is putting on a false front to the world, and it’s to Zeringue’s credit that this fact is both obvious, but also believable. We’ve all met this kind of person, that puts on a fake smile and flashes her pearly whites in order to get what she wants, both everyone’s friend and also lacking in actual emotional connection. It creates a difficult dichotomy for an actor to portray authentically, as if you lean too far into the superficiality, you risk going too big, or hammy, but if you play it too subtly, it may not register to the audience at all. One worries in Act 1 that Zeringue may be leaning too far into the former camp, with Emily coming off as perhaps too polished, but as we move towards the final acts, cracks start to form in her plastic shell, we begin to see the unpolished, fiery Emily start peeking through. By the last few scenes, she becomes the third part of a fiery triangle, fighting blow for blow with the other performers.
Rounding out the group is Addrian Shontai’s Rodney, Harry’s cool-headed waiter. It’s always a refreshing change when Shontai shows up on stages, as at times the verbal tete a tete between characters can get overwhelming, but Shontai acts as a refuge amongst the action, a calming presence that helps to lower the temperature. For many stretches of the show, the stakes of the restaurant endeavor are elevated to catastrophic heights, but Shontai’s Rodney offers a reminder that at the end of the day, food is something to created to make people happy, and that comes before any of the drama.
Seared tackles one of those important questions in the world of artistic endeavors: how do you maintain the integrity of your art when money is on the line? The effects of capitalism on art has been a rich vein to draw from for generations, and though this doesn’t add too much more to the conversation, it tackles it astutely, even if it’s final note rings a little muddy. Then again, the sobering ending is inline with the reality of things, for at the end of the day, all artists have to make sacrifices in order to survive, and a little humility never hurt anyone.
Seared is an amazing showcase for some of Austin’s top acting talents, tackling difficult questions in painfully authentic ways, with some top notch production design and direction, with elements you won’t see in any other show. Despite its 2 hour-plus running time, there’s always forward momentum, with the performers keeping the action engrossing, even when they’re doing something as simple as cooking a fish. The cast’s chemistry is undeniable, especially that between Finn and Wolfe, who create a plethora of intense and intriguing scenes that are worth the price of admission alone. It’s the perfect way to cap Austin Playhouse’s latest season, and an excellent promise of great things to come in their next.
Seared is playing through June 28th at Austin Playhouse. For more information, and to purchase tickets, visit austinplayhouse.com.
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